Diseases or Insects Aren't Always the Culprits
Professor Sprout, my Snargaluff stump is wilting! What can I spray?
Spray?
Often we jump to the conclusion that an insect or disease is the plant problem. Instead, it may be a nonliving or abiotic cause. What are they?
Weather is something we always talk about but often don't recognize how seriously it can damage our trees and plants. Frost is one of those weather-related factors; cold temperatures alone can cause injuries from which plants don't recover. Cracks and cankers on smooth-barked trees, frost-related or from lightning, can be entry points for disease or insects.
The drought of the past two years not only slowed growth in trees but it also set them up to be more susceptible to insects and disease - secondary causes. Many birch trees are now showing top die back. When moisture is abundant, these trees are better able to ward off bronze birch borers that cause the damage. Evergreen species may exhibit browning needles when they don't get abundant moisture, especially in fall. If not protected from hot winter sun and cold winter winds, needles desiccate through transpiration, turning brown.
Drought stressed plants wilt first, then leaves turn yellow or brown at the tips and may lose their leaves. Sometimes people calls us, wondering what to spray when they really need to water their plants.

Crops also fail when floods inundate fields; flooded conditions can also kill shrubs such as lilacs if submerged for only a few days.  Most plants need oxygen in the soil to live. Flood waters also compact soil, making it difficult to grow crops in the future until proper tilth is regained.
Soil types can affect plants also. Clay soils bind up nutrients when they are cold in the spring. That is why plant leaves are chlorotic (green veins and yellow on the main part)before soil warms. Nutrient deficiencies also show up as purple, white or yellow leaves. Plants are more susceptible to disease when they aren't growing actively. Tomatoes that are fed low rates of fish emulsion during the summer don't overgrow vegetatively but just enough to fend off leaf diseases.  Tomatoes not kept evenly moist when fruiting end up with blossom end rot, black leathery patches that make the fruit unusable. Diseases also enter through roots that are cut during hoeing.
Trees that have roots exposed die but those planted too deep also die - just slowly. Roots disturbed or cut during construction or when making a new flower bed can cause tree death or slow deterioration. It can take years to show up. If you plant perennials or seedlings whose roots are a solid mass or encircle the spot without spreading them out, you will have restricted growth. Trees will develop roots that choke and kill the tree - just when it is giving you shade.
Herbicides are another culprit. 2-4-D sprayed on a windy day may drift to desirable plants.  On hot days it can vaporize, causing deformed or cupped leaves, dead spots or yellow and white leaves. If it is your tree or plant, it is an oops; when it is your neighbor's, it can mean legal action. Herbicides can kill plants that you don't intend to affect.
Mulches are good, but when applied too deeply, too close to stems, or covering the plant itself, will cause disease and death of plants. Mice and other creatures can also live there if the mulch composition is not appropriate.

Most of this is common sense if we think about what is going on weather-wise, follow good horticultural practices, and think about what is happening around us.
Help with home horticulture challenges is available by calling the Master Gardener voice mail, 444-7916. Leave your name, number, and question; one of the Master Gardeners will call to assist you.

Cathy Peck
Beltrami County Master Gardener




For more information about Plant Diseases go to the University of Minnesota website on diagnosing problems with plants caused by disease, insects, and non-living factors at: http://www.extension.umn.edu/gardeninfo/diagnostics/index.html
Beltrami County Master Gardeners